Donate a kit car or replica, and get the registration question answered first

Where donated kits come from

Builders who finished and enjoyed it, and are now ready for it to go. Those are titled, registered, sorted cars and they sell perfectly well.

Builders who did not finish. A kit that stalled at the wiring stage is genuinely common, and it comes with boxes, a donor drivetrain and an unregistered chassis.

Estates, where a replica is often mistaken for the real thing by one side of the family and for worthless fiberglass by the other. Neither is usually correct.

What has to be true for this to work

A kit car has no factory VIN. In most states it must be inspected and issued a state-assigned VIN, then titled as a specially constructed, reconstructed or replica vehicle. Some states do this routinely; some are genuinely difficult; and in a few, a car that has never been through the process can be very hard to title at all.

So tell us: is it titled now, and if so how does the title describe it? Is there a state-assigned VIN plate on it? If it is not titled, do you have the kit manufacturer's certificate of origin, the donor vehicle title and the receipts for the major components? Those three documents are usually what a state wants.

If the car has never been titled and the paperwork trail is incomplete, we will tell you honestly that it may only be saleable as parts, and what that means for the deduction. That is far better than finding out after the trailer has left.

What decides what one brings

• Titled or not. By a wide margin the biggest factor. A titled registered replica is worth multiples of an identical untitled one.
• Which kit, and which generation. Established manufacturers with parts support and a known reputation are worth considerably more than obscure or defunct ones.
• Build quality. Panel gaps, gel coat quality, wiring, plumbing and how the donor drivetrain was integrated. Buyers in this market assess builds carefully.
• Drivetrain. What engine and transmission, and whether it is a desirable and serviceable combination.
• Completeness. On an unfinished kit, what is present and what still needs buying. Missing major components can exceed the value of everything else.

Marques and models we accept

Kit manufacturer and generation are what buyers filter on.

• Cobra replicas: Factory Five, Superformance, Backdraft, Kirkham, Unique, Contemporary, ERA, Everett-Morrison.
• Other replicas: Superformance and RCR GT40, Beck and Vintage Speedsters 356, Intermeccanica, Lamborghini and Ferrari replica bodies, Meyers Manx and Manx-style buggies.
• Component and sports cars: Caterham and Lotus Seven clones, Locost, Exocet, Ultima, Sterling, Bradley GT, Fiberfab, Avenger, Kelmark.

Not seeing yours? The list above is a search aid, not a restriction. We accept any make or model in this category, named here or not, including orphan brands and builders long out of business. What decides a donation is the condition and the paperwork, never the badge, so put yours on the form even if it is not listed.

Manufacturer and model names appear here so you can find your own vehicle. No manufacturer sponsors, endorses or is affiliated with this program.

What you can deduct

Read the registration section above first, because on a kit car that is the deciding factor rather than a footnote. Where a title exists, the usual rules apply and the state title rules page covers replacements.

Giving Center sells the car and your deduction is the gross sale proceeds on Form 1098-C. A finished, titled, well-built replica with a good drivetrain can clear $5,000, where a qualified appraisal and Form 8283 Section B are required at your expense. A titled but rougher build usually lands between $500 and $5,000.

An untitled unfinished kit frequently sells for parts value, sometimes under $500, where the deduction is the lesser of fair market value or $500 with a written acknowledgment. That is the honest read and we will tell you if it applies to yours.